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Archive for December, 2010

Common Overland Travel Mistakes & How To Avoid Them

Friday, December 31st, 2010

groupI’ve been called a hard a** on more than one occasion and you know what – I’m good with that.

So after 10 years around overland trucks and after thousands of passengers have come and gone, here are the top 5 common issues you should consider before departing on any kind of overland travel adventure.

1. Guide Books
Guide books can be great – helpful, useful, and sometimes accurate but they are exactly that – GUIDE books. They should not be perceived as the concrete answer to travel questions. They give you a rough idea of the what, the where and the how and often have some really interesting info about history and points of interest.

Big mistake assuming that your guide book, written and printed a year or more ago, has more accurate information about a site or activity than your Crew, who were there a month ago. Even then accept that prices, for example, at any tourist site can change overnight, but your Crew are still likely to have the most up to date info.

pyr322. Your Expectations
Expect nothing and you will have a blast!

Africa (like anywhere else) and overland travel through Africa (like any travel anywhere) changes constantly. Having expectations of what something will be/look/feel/smell like often leads to disappointment. Be open to everything and then everything is surprising and fantastic and amazing.

I remember laughing myself into tears the first time my passenger on a Middle East trip told me “the Sphinx is too small! Why is it so small?!”. Too small for what? LOL. But she was horrified.

Leave your preconceptions and misconceptions at the door and you’ll have a much better time!

3. The Psychology Trap
Your trip is what you make it. How many times have you heard that before? It is true though.

It is not up to your Crew or your fellow travellers to ‘make’ your trip for you, however it is up to you if you let them break it for you. Confused? Read it again, slower. :)

Saddest thing I heard recently was from a traveller who just finished a Cape to Nairobi 56 day trip. I asked her what was the biggest memory of Africa she will take home with her… her answer… “the mouthy, selfish b**ch who sat across from me for 3 days on the truck”. Ok then. Maybe I should have asked what the best memory was instead?? Sad.

For your own sanity – you do your thing and let everyone else do theirs. You are guaranteed that most of the other travellers you will get on with like a house on fire. But put 24 different personalities into a confined space for a extended period of time… there is bound to be some moments where biting your tongue/going for a walk is the best course of action.

spade4. You Get What You Pay For
This could be a whole essay all by itself but the bottom line is – you do get what you pay for. If you want a guided, all bells and whistles, all inclusive package holiday then by all means book one. If you want a suited and booted safari guide pointing out every lizard track before you return to your fully kitted, ensuite tent – then definitely book one. Both of those options may or may not be expensive but neither will be what you get on a normal Overland trip.

Overlanding is a budget and basic way of travelling, usually camping, where you are expected to help out with truck and campsite duties and decide for yourself which optional activities you wish to take part in. We call it ‘independent travel with out the bulls**t’.

The Crew are there to assist you, get you from A to B, worry about the borders/traffic/road conditions/weather restrictions/food budget/entry fees/game park rules/rampaging elephants for you, organise the logistics and provide info based on the knowledge they have picked up from previous trips. There is no ‘over the PA’ dialogue about what you see out the window and no waving flag at the front to follow. It’s rough, often dirty, occasionally loud, and usually an awesome, fun way to travel.

The trick to having a great trip? – A: do your home work. Research the places you want to visit, compare tour operators, compare prices, know exactly what is included in that price. And then make a decision keeping in mind that your budget is ultimately going to determine your style of travel.
B: Accept that in developing countries anything and everything changes constantly. Your overland itinerary is flexible and often fluid as a result. Grumbling about any last minute changes won’t help so just stay cool and go with the flow.

If you want posh – save a bit longer.

africa-map5. Africa is a Continent – Not A Country
There are 54 countries in Africa; over 800 main languages, over 2000 dialects, 4 time zones, 9 climatic zones, and over 890 million people.

If you can’t come up with better than ‘What is the weather like in Africa in June?’ or ‘Do you speak African?’ you really shouldn’t be travelling.

Anything else you want to know about overlanding or for overland trip information in Africa or the Middle East, contact the team at OverlandingAfrica.com or post your comments below.

Dayne’s Top 10 for 2010

Friday, December 31st, 2010

I have mostly travelled in Southern Africa and have felt the heat of Namibia, the droughts in Botswana, and swum in the azure waters of Mozambique.

Each destination offers something very different so here are my Top 10 favorites, including my best kept secrets for Cape Town.

sossus

01. Climbing Dune 45 at sunrise
This is not exactly adrenalin pumping action but for me it was a definite must do activity in the vast Namibian desert. The beauty of the landscape makes you feel slightly insignificant in the orange coloured surroundings with the sun rising over the dunes.

02. Braai at Oudekraal
The national past time in South Africa of course is to slap some meat on a fire and have a few drinks. Oudekraal on the Atlantic Seaboard is the last strong hold of Cape Town spots where you can braai on the beach. A best kept secret in Cape Town.

03. Dhow Trip in Mozambique
The shabby little boat didn’t make me too enthusiastic about this trip but believe me, whatever beauty that lay in front of me was definitely no match to the magic that awaited me under water. Snorkelling along the reefs was one of the best experiences I have had.

04. Exploring the Okavango Delta
Flying in small aircraft like the Cesna is really not something that makes me feel safe and definitely gives the saying, “a wing and a prayer”, new meaning. Having a bird’s eye view gives you a completely different vantage point to view the animals in this ever-changing landscape of water. You only realize the size of the world’s largest inland delta by viewing it from the sky.

05. Chobe Sunset Boat Cruise
Huge masses of lumpy Hippos show you their pink mouths and big teeth while massive herds of Elephant lumber along and remind you just how small you are.

06. Climbing Table Mountain
Living in Cape Town it’s definitely a prerequisite to climb Table Mountain. Table Mountain has a restaurant on top and though very pricey the champagne, I mean sparkling wine, was worth the toast at the end of it.

07. Seafood on Sundays
Sunday is by far my favourite day of the week and my perfect getaway is to head to the south of Cape Town to the False Bay coast. Stroll around Kalk Bay and spend hours browsing through second-hand stores and finding those little gems or buying things you really don’t need. To round off the day head to ‘Kalkies’ for the best seafood that side of the mountain.

08. Beach front Cocktails
Summer has hit Cape Town and cocktails after work are the order of the day. Considering myself a connoisseur of sorts, I have sampled cocktails in practically every establishment worth their daiquiri. The best kept secret is definitely the Radisson Hotel at the Waterfront. Offering a wide selection of tapas and perched right on the water’s edge, there is no better spot to watch sunset over the Atlantic Ocean. Breathtaking.

09. Learning to Surf
There is always that something you would like to do but never had the guts to try it. I literally decided to take the plunge and spend a day learning how to surf at Muizenberg Beach on the southern peninsula in Cape Town. What an awesome experience and fun day out. Highly recommended as a confidence booster and will give you a new lease on life.

10. Canoeing on the Orange River
For gentle river tripping or canoeing, the Orange River, on the border of South Africa and Namibia, is the best. Long, flat scenic stretches with a few rapids in between. No match to white river rafting but still awesome fun especially in a group.

rafters

Got a Top 10 list of your own? Post it below!

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Tania’s Top 10 for 2010

Thursday, December 30th, 2010

Everyone sees the ’sales pitch’ when it comes to Africa. Don’t get me wrong – there is value in the glossy marketing brochure pics of Vic Falls and the Serengeti Plains but at a more human level some of the best ’stuff’ in Africa drops under the radar.

Here is my Top 10 list of the best ’stuff’ in Africa for 2010 (in no particular order).   :)

lion walk1. Antelope Park, Gweru, Zimbabwe
Home of the African Lion Environmental Research Trust and where you can take a Lion cub for a walk! Or swim with Elephants!

In my opinion also the best camp in Africa! They have chalets and river tents too for the non-overland types and endless hot water from the trusty donkey boilers out the back.

sky dive swakopmund2. Skydive Swakopmund, Namibia
For a chick who is petrified of heights, getting me in a tiny Cessna plane with no seats and no door and sending it to 10,000ft is something of a drama. But ask me to jump out of one (parachute attached of course)? H*ll yes! I could free fall all day, there really is nothing like it. As they say “The best fun you can have with your clothes on!” The bonus is there are few drop zones more stunning than miles of sand dunes on one side and the Atlantic Ocean on the other.

sossusvlei dune3. Dawn over Sossusvlei Dunes, Namibia
The colour, the quiet….. the ‘nothingness’. Awesome! You really just have to experience it yourself.Miles and miles of rolling sand dunes, which look  much like caramel ripple ice cream, stretching off into the distance….

You’ll certainly feel it after hiking to the top of Dune 45 in soft sand to get the best view for sunrise! But it is so worth it!

meerkat4. Meerkats
Hard to remember these are wild animals when they are so cute you just want to cuddle them and squeeze them and take them home.

In their constant quest to stand on the tallest thing around (so they can see any predators who look hungry) they have no problem using your head if needed… or your camera tripod, truck or tent.

Cute yes, but they bite too!

rain-collecting5. Warm Rain in Uganda
While the bugs and red mud is not something to write home about, the warm rain in tropical Uganda certainly makes pitching your tent and cooking for 28 passengers a bit more tolerable.

On the flip side, with humidity in the 90’s in the wet season, never really getting dry isn’t always fun either! But look at the bright side – at least you are never really cold!

Ma BJ and kate 20106. Ma and BJ at Meserani Snake Park, Arusha, Tanzania
No overland tour is complete without a trip to the Snake Park if only so you can meet 2 of the most hard case people on this continent. Not to mention to see the huge impact they have made on the local Masai community.

Ma is the all-encompassing, strict, and loyal mother figure to all of the overland road crew past and present, and you don’t mess with her if you know what is good for you. BJ is the story telling ‘real africa’ guy to have a whiskey with at the end of the day. Even the bar is famous! If the walls could talk….

Oh, and then there is a few hundred snakes to look at as well.

elephant-shrew7. The Africa ‘Small 5′
You have heard about the Big 5, everywhere, all the time, constantly…. Lion, Elephant, Rhino, Leopard, Buffalo. There is a heck of a lot more in Africa than just the 5 species of animal you see in every book, you know!

What about the ‘Small 5′?
Elephant Shrew: Like a mouse only smaller and cuter.
Ant Lion: Like an armoured ant with pincers on the front.
Red Billed Buffalo Weaver (bird): Very vocal and build HUGE nests where hundreds all live next to each other.
Leopard Tortoise: Growing up to 60cms long and 35kg in weight you will certainly see them coming.
Rhino Beetle: A miniature dinosaur with pincers on the front almost as big as the rest of it’s body!

campfire8. Campfire Stories and Guitar Sessions
Maybe its the Kiwi in me but a good campfire and a good guitar player make for a great night.

Or maybe it’s a good campfire, a good guitar player and a good singer that does the trick.

Either way, just don’t ask me to sing…

Sunset Bar9. Cocktails at Africa House Hotel, Stone Town, Zanzibar
Once owned by the Sultan of Zanzibar before becoming the ‘English Club’, this little place is a well kept gem full of history. Sit on the deck of the Sunset Bar with locals and tourists alike,  enjoy a cocktail and the stunning view over the Indian Ocean.

Just sit back, relax and enjoy the quiet. Awesome!

10. Classic African Road Signs
5hookerslaid

Got your own list of Top 10? Leave them below! :) HAPPY NEW YEAR!

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Garden Route Road Trip: Andre’s Top 5 Discoveries

Wednesday, December 29th, 2010

In October of this year I did a 4 day Garden Route road trip with my girlfriend. Here are some of my surprise discoveries from my one and only South African road trip of 2010.

Knysna Loerie#1 Nature’s Valley
Until this road trip, I had never been to Nature’s Valley. 32 years living in South Africa and never had I been there. Disgraceful.

All I can say is that this place is a nature-lover’s heaven-on-earth. Wake up to the sound of the indigenous Knysna Loeries knocking on your window. Go for long walks on a wild and impressive beach. Surf spots on your doorstep, to the east and to the west.

I will be back. Oh yes, I will be back.

Rock Kestral#2 Best Sunday Roast on the Garden Route

There is wildlife sanctuary for birds of prey called “Eagle Encounters” on the N2 near Plettenberg Bay. We discovered this little gem on a rainy Sunday afternoon while travelling from Plett to Knysna. I am big fan of birds of prey, so we decided to stop. Unfortunately the centre was not doing their daily bird flights and educational talks (because of the rain). So we browsed through their shop, and decided to have lunch at the cosy little restaurant.

The restaurant served up the most delicious roast I’ve had all year. The atmosphere was just perfect with the soft rain drip-dropping on the corrugated iron roof. The ladies in the kitchen who prepared our food were laughing and smiling all through lunch.

Definitely happy food.

#3 Pure Luxury at Pezula
During this trip, we were fortunate enough to be offered a couple of nights stay at Knysna’s luxury golf estate, Pezula.

Situated high up on the Knysna heads, the estate overlooks the Knysna lagoon on one side, and the Indian Ocean on the other. The most memorable aspect of our 5-star stay, was the large, comfortable and beautifully decorated room; which had every conceivable luxury including a selection of pillows which could be ordered from reception, based on your sleeping preference. The grounds at Pezula are magnificently kept, incorporating a world-class 18 hole golf course.

Forest#4 Knysna Forest Walk
Part of the charm of the Garden Route is NOT having a plan.

If you like keeping spontaneity alive, then keep an eye on the various signboards which line the N2 as you drive this popular route. There are all sorts of spontaneous rewards awaiting you: Elephant Sanctuary, Bird Sanctuary, Wolf Sanctuary, Puzzle Land, Canopy Tours, and the list goes on…

One of these rewards was a short forest walk (1.5km) we did through a section of the indigenous Knysna Forest. The demarcated walking area is easy to miss while travelling at 100km an hour on South Africa’s second national road; so keep an eye out for the small signboard (on the left hand side) on the stretch between Knysna and Plett. There is parking for about 5-10 cars, and a small hut where the local national parks employees will take your R10 (approx $1) for walking along the boardwalk through this small piece of wooded paradise. There are picnic tables and all trees are marked with information boards. This is a great place to stretch your legs on a long road trip and a must for anyone who simply love beautiful trees.

When I close my eyes and think of this road trip, it is in this haven that I find myself.

AVK#5 Explore more
My final and most important discovery from this road trip, is the realisation that I do not do this enough.

It is so easy to get caught up in the rat-race: work, social commitments, friends, surfing, dinner parties where conversations revolve around things we’ve seen on youtube and where people keep whipping out their mobile phones every 5 seconds.

I have realised that we do not make enough time to appreciate the beauty which lies all around us. Gifts.

My resolution for 2011: explore more.

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THIS is Botswana!

Wednesday, December 8th, 2010

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5 Things To Do Before You Die – Botswana

Tuesday, December 7th, 2010

There are some things you really should see while you are in Botswana. Here are the top 5!

delta mokoroGame Viewing from a Mokoro
Okavango Delta teems with an enormous variety of animal and bird-life. A perfect way to experience the untouched waterways is by mokoro (dug-out canoe), giving you the opportunity to witness the wildlife of Botswana close-up. Your mokoro poler and guide will share their extensive knowledge of how to find the animals, as well as insights as to how to read and interpret wildlife behaviour.

View the Rock Art Site of the San At Manayana
35km west of Gabarone lies the village of Manayana, where dazzling rock paintings are located. Historians believe that the San people created the rock paintings and that Manayana could have been a place of ritual for them. The rock pictures include rhinos, gemsbok, antelope, and a group of giraffes as well as human geometric shapes.

Bushmen in the KalahariGame Walks with Bushmen Trackers
Take a trip to the famous Kalahari Desert in Botswana and witness a culture of people known as the San. Let the San take you into their simple, yet interesting lives and show you how they live, from their saintly methods of stalking game to climbing into giant trees to collect wild fruit. Game walks with bushmen trackers bring you closer to these warm and friendly people that will hide nothing from you, inviting you afterwards to join a chorus of clapping and singing around a fire.

View the world’s largest Salt Pan at Makgadikgadi
View the world’s largest salt pans at Makgadikgadi and be swept away by breath-taking scenery and big blue skies. During the onset of the rains in mid-November, witness one of the most awe-inspiring spectacles in the migrating herds of wildebeest and zebra and see the Pans transform into a water wonder world teeming with migratory water birds, zebra and wildebeest.

ele pushChobe River Boat Cruise
A sunset cruise is possibly one of the best ways to experience an African sunset, at the Chobe National Park. Game viewing by boat is another unmissable experience and the Chobe National Park is abundant with wild animals, notably elephant. The large herds of elephant come down to the river to drink; they are joined by buffalo, giraffe, leopard, lion, kudu, waterbuck, puku, lechwe, impala and baboons.

For information and trips into Botswana contact OverlandingAfrica.com or post your comments below.

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Okavango Delta – 10 Things You Didn’t Know

Tuesday, December 7th, 2010

Some useful information and some quirky facts for you before you travel….

okavango delta mokoro- The world’s largest inland delta covers an area of more than 15,000 square kms – a little smaller than Israel or half the size of Switzerland.

- The crystal-clear water is so pure that you can drink it.

- There is two distinct seasons: a cool, dry winter from May to September and a hot, wet summer from October to April.

- Traditional Mokoro‘s are made from a hollowed out sausage tree. Today, because of the need to protect the trees, you may find yourself in the modern equivalent – a fibreglass canoe.

- Mokoro’s are ‘poled’ through the Delta – like a punt. It is harder than it looks.

- 70% of the estimated 150,000 islands in the Delta began life as a termite mound.

- 11 cubic kilometres of water arrive each year into the Delta from Angola.

- Hippos act as the Delta’s channel builders, and through their dung, fertilizer.

- The dry season sees up to 260,000 large mammals concentrated in and around the Delta.

- The Okavango Delta is teaming with bird life and is home to the rare Fish Eagle and the huge, extremely rare, Pel’s Fishing Owl, (the world’s only fish-eating owl).

For all your overland trips into the Okavango Delta contact the team at Overlandingafrica.com or post your comments below.

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Top 5 Botswana Overland Trips

Tuesday, December 7th, 2010

So, you have been thinking about heading to Africa for a safari… don’t have time to travel the length of the continent but still want that authentic African experience? Look no further than the center of Africa.

okavango delta mokoroWe make it easy for you with the top 5 overland trips in Botswana.

Yawning hippoDelta to the Falls
Local cultures, mokoro cruises in the Okavango Delta, excellent game viewing and adventure activities at Victoria Falls. This short tour has it all!

Delta and Chobe Expedition
A quick trip covering the best of Botswana – wildlife filled Chobe National Park and the majestic Okavango Delta. Finish off with the thundering Victoria Falls to get the blood pumping!

Kalahari and Okavango Delta
Visit one of the biggest game reserves in the world on this wildlife specific tour. We focus on the Central Kalahari Game Reserve but also visit the Okavango Delta, Makgadikgadi Pans and Chobe National Park.

Central Africa Loop
A round trip that encompasses most of Southern Africa’s highlights. Meander through the Okavango’s waterways, raft the mighty Zambezi or explore Zimbabwe ruins, a trip you will never forget!

Delta ReedsSouthern Loop
Explore Southern Africa from Victoria Falls to Etosha National Park, journey to the waterways of the Okavango Delta, and be amazed at the starkness of the Makgadikgadi Pans. Add to that the adventure capital of Namibia – Swakopmund – with endless activities to choose from.

Post your comments below or contact the team at OverlandingAfrica.com for more overland tours and budget backpacking advice.

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The History of Surfers